LAST week I received a phone call from Leif (Engstrom) telling me to get on the next flight to Puerto Rico for a nice sized swell. After the plane ride from hell with no air-con I landed in the Caribbean.
Leif and I rushed to Middles straight from the airport to check the surf only to discover a lake… Immediately followed by the phone call telling us we’d lost Innersection and Albee Layer had won, deservingly so. Heading home we licked our wounds over some brews and bbq whilst praying for swell.
Sure enough we awoke and it was on! After kicking off with local Rincon ripper Darren Muschett for a quick Maria’s session we bounced around town rest of the day before retiring early in preparation for a pre dawn truck to a secret spot (the pumping final session of the video). Sadly the secret spot wasn’t that secret and the crowds eventually drove us off happy but wanting more for the final day of filming.
Day three and we spent all day at Middles. I was a little star struck upon discovering a heavily congested Pro/WCT lineup: Dylan Graves, Blake Jones, Aron Gieger, Hector Santamaria, Guaduaskas brothers & Corey Lopez, etc. An eventful day to say the least for this cameraman. It was easily the best quality swell I have seen in PR during my frequent visits, so no complaints here.
Welcome to the plateau. It's where we gather to watch Yago Dora soar above our heads.
These are the fortunate few. Many epic sessions have fallen by the wayside, victims to our ruthless monthly culls, but the results are wondrous to behold.
Patagonia is a challenging lover, said the English novelist, Bruce Chatwin. It haunts you, it bewitches you, it wraps you in its arms and does not let you go.
Welcome to the winners' podium. The cream of February lies before you in four spectacular Atlantic sessions, big barrels being the theme.
The symbiosis of surfer and winter. The Astray Collective and Finisterre bring you a short narrated by Matt Smith and produced by Mickey Smith