LAST week I received a phone call from Leif (Engstrom) telling me to get on the next flight to Puerto Rico for a nice sized swell. After the plane ride from hell with no air-con I landed in the Caribbean.
Leif and I rushed to Middles straight from the airport to check the surf only to discover a lake… Immediately followed by the phone call telling us we’d lost Innersection and Albee Layer had won, deservingly so. Heading home we licked our wounds over some brews and bbq whilst praying for swell.
Sure enough we awoke and it was on! After kicking off with local Rincon ripper Darren Muschett for a quick Maria’s session we bounced around town rest of the day before retiring early in preparation for a pre dawn truck to a secret spot (the pumping final session of the video). Sadly the secret spot wasn’t that secret and the crowds eventually drove us off happy but wanting more for the final day of filming.
Day three and we spent all day at Middles. I was a little star struck upon discovering a heavily congested Pro/WCT lineup: Dylan Graves, Blake Jones, Aron Gieger, Hector Santamaria, Guaduaskas brothers & Corey Lopez, etc. An eventful day to say the least for this cameraman. It was easily the best quality swell I have seen in PR during my frequent visits, so no complaints here.
Latest episode of Fergal Smith's fantastic Growing series
As the boundaries of surfing are constantly pushed into the distance, Matt Rott questions surfing's relationship with the helmet
Soli Bailey, Tai Graham, and Harrison Roach chase a healthy swell over a week on Lombok
Noah Lane and Matt Smith head out off the radar to the Scottish Islands, hot on the pursuit of slabs