I WAS sitting on the rocks in the rain with a sad look on my face when all of a sudden I see Rasta emerge and start walking down the hill.
I’m a young-un and sitting here watching so many unridden bombs made me sad. Pretty much every wave spat as it barrelled. I have been into surf photography for a while now (for my 16 years) and had come down to film some of my bodyboarding mates but the waves were way too fast for them to make much of it.
As it started raining I saw Rasta emerge from around the corner walking along the rocks towards where I was positioned. First wave he paddled for of the session was a sick overhead barrel which he shot out of with ease. From then on he dominated every set that came through - Rasta got wave after wave and I continued to film until all the space on memory card was full. The morning changed from a gloomy boring session to a gloomy super session after Rasta showed up.