WEDGE take two! If Trestles is a wave designed by committee, a uniform setup with something for everyone and unlikely to inflict much pain, then Newport’s Wedge came out of the horrific marriage of Anton Chigurh and Hannibal Lecter.
This is surfing’s equivalent of a slasher movie, you know everyone is going to meet a horrific fate and it is just a question of how. The motivation behind the riders intention is clear, have fun, try not to die. The audience is unquestioningly voyeuristic. And the source of the edit was of course that monster south swell which hit Teahupoo. Get the popcorn out.
Kepa finds himself in a land of perpetual dancing and broad smiles.
Pick a solid swell, make the treacherous paddle, avoid the fang-like rocks on the inside, and you could score some of the longest rights of your life.
If Jack Kerouac surfed he would have chewed his beatnik leg off to get on this trip. Desert Point to Shipstern and everything in between.
Not all winter is cold, even if the country is in danger of washing away there will be surfers lapping up the storms
Those two imposters, triumph and disaster, go hand in hand in the sport of bodyboarding, especially for those hellmen who push the boundaries of what is surfable.